Milan Fashion Week SS27

Our Milan Fashion Week will kick off on September 22ndwith the Dieselfashion show, launching a calendar packed with events dedicated to the Spring Summer 2027 collections.

On September 23rdthere will be a particularly busy day: Jil Sander, Missoni, MM6 Maison Margiela and Etrowill showcase their collections, four entities that represent different approaches to contemporary fashion and which we will follow with particular attention.

On September 24thit will instead be the turn of Max Mara and Marni, two fashion houses that are key players on the Milan scene, while on Thursday, September 25ththe calendar will continue with Sportmax, Blumarine, Elisabetta Franchi, Moschino and The Attico.

Our focus will culminate on September 26th, with the fashion shows of Ermanno Scervino, Dolce&Gabbana and MSGM, before the final days of Milan Fashion Week SS27, which will conclude on September 28th, then passing the baton to Paris Fashion Week.

We will follow the runways day by day to recount the collections, identify the most interesting Spring Summer 2027trends and discover how the brands that are part of the Divo Boutique selection will interpret the new season.

The Diesel Spring Summer 2027 show has just come to an end, and the first event of Milan Fashion Week SS27 already offers plenty of food for thought. Designed by Glenn Martens, the show creates a universe built around contrasts, sensuality, energy and provocation — elements that have long been part of Diesel’s distinctive language. The fashion house itself describes the collection as a celebration of freedom, confidence, connection and desire, in line with its For Successful Living philosophy.

Among the key codes emerging from the runway is a palette that combines intense Pantone colours with rusty, earthy and material-inspired tones, creating bold chromatic contrasts. Leather dominates as a defining texture, interpreted across both womenswear and menswear, while the silhouettes play with oversized jackets, structured shoulders and sharp geometric shapes.

Dresses and skirts also follow a strongly geometric and symmetrical construction, while layering, by now one of the defining codes of the Diesel aesthetic, takes centre stage through overlapping pieces and combinations that may appear spontaneous or deliberately chaotic, yet are carefully constructed.

The treatment of details is particularly striking: irregular cut-outs, fringed surfaces and finishes that appear almost torn or worn introduce a sense of deliberately sought-after imperfection. These choices can also be interpreted through the idea of reuse and the transformation of materials: what appears worn, reassembled or imperfect acquires a new identity.

But Diesel does not tell its story through clothing alone. The atmosphere of the show is an integral part of the collection itself. Red lighting, a soundtrack initially rooted in underground techno and a progressively more sensual finale created a physical and provocative environment in which fashion, music and performance came together.

Beauty also contributes to this visual language. For women, bare skin, exposed waists and deliberately smudged lipstick enhance an image of unconventional sensuality. The contrast with the menswear, which explores seduction and provocation more explicitly, further intensifies the tension between eroticism, power and vulnerability.

It is precisely these contrasts that make the show particularly interesting to observe. At the same time, the elements presented on the runway open up a broader reflection on the relationship between the body, desire, freedom and the representation of sensuality.

The show therefore goes beyond the simple presentation of a collection and leaves room for interpretation. Through transformed materials, geometric silhouettes, sensuality, imperfection and provocation, Diesel opens Milan Fashion Week SS27 with a strong visual language that is likely to spark discussion.

After the energy and provocation of Diesel, Milan Fashion Week SS27 shifts completely with Jil Sander. The Spring Summer 2027 show presents a vision that stands in contrast to the previous show: no spectacle, no performance competing for attention with the clothes. Here, everything is designed to bring the focus back to the essential — materials, silhouettes and the precision of volumes.

The collection initially moves through a rigorous palette dominated by black, blue, grey and white, colours that reinforce the brand’s minimalist identity. What gradually changes is above all the feeling of the season: from a colder, more austere interpretation of spring at the beginning of the show, the collection slowly transitions towards a lighter summer, without ever abandoning the pursuit of formal purity that represents one of Jil Sander’s most recognisable codes.

Materials also take centre stage. Leather, silk and cotton create contrasting surfaces and introduce a strong tactile dimension that becomes an integral part of the silhouette. They are not simply materials used to construct the garments, but elements that shape the perception of volume, alternating structure, fluidity and lightness.

The lines remain clean and precise, yet never lack character. Among the most distinctive elements are structured jackets with balloon sleeves and defined waists, presented in both womenswear and menswear. The silhouette therefore plays with the contrast between a more pronounced upper body and a narrower waist, creating a contemporary shape without relying on overly elaborate constructions.

Tailoring is one of the central themes of the collection. Suits and tailored ensembles move down the runway in both masculine and feminine interpretations, reaffirming the importance of sartorial construction within the brand’s creative research. Alongside the more rigorous tailoring, however, deconstructed and oversized trench coats introduce a more relaxed and contemporary dimension.

While Diesel transformed its show into an immersive experience, Jil Sander deliberately takes the opposite approach. The setting is sterile, minimal and almost suspended, while an initially solemn soundtrack accompanies the models before gradually becoming lighter in parallel with the collection. The result is a presentation in which it is not the spectacle that captures attention, but what is being worn.

And this is precisely where the difference between the two visions becomes clear. While Diesel builds an entire universe around its collection through energy, music, performance and provocation, Jil Sander removes almost everything that could distract from the garments. The essential becomes the true scenography.

Perhaps this is why the collection does not necessarily seek the so-called “wow effect” through an immediate novelty or an overtly spectacular gesture. Its strength lies instead in continuity: proportions, materials, tailoring and minimalism are brought back to the core of the Jil Sander identity and reinterpreted through a contemporary sensibility.

Following a show like Diesel’s, so rich in visual stimuli, Jil Sander becomes almost an exercise in subtraction. It does not seek to impress through excess, but to reaffirm identity through precision. And in a Fashion Week increasingly shaped by spectacle as well, choosing to let the clothes speak for themselves becomes, in its own way, a precise statement of style.