Milan Fashion Week SS27

Our Milan Fashion Week will kick off on September 22ndwith the Dieselfashion show, launching a calendar packed with events dedicated to the Spring Summer 2027 collections.

On September 23rdthere will be a particularly busy day: Jil Sander, Missoni, MM6 Maison Margiela and Etrowill showcase their collections, four entities that represent different approaches to contemporary fashion and which we will follow with particular attention.

On September 24thit will instead be the turn of Max Mara and Marni, two fashion houses that are key players on the Milan scene, while on Thursday, September 25ththe calendar will continue with Sportmax, Blumarine, Elisabetta Franchi, Moschino and The Attico.

Our focus will culminate on September 26th, with the fashion shows of Ermanno Scervino, Dolce&Gabbana and MSGM, before the final days of Milan Fashion Week SS27, which will conclude on September 28th, then passing the baton to Paris Fashion Week.

We will follow the runways day by day to recount the collections, identify the most interesting Spring Summer 2027trends and discover how the brands that are part of the Divo Boutique selection will interpret the new season.

The Diesel Spring Summer 2027 show has just come to an end, and the first event of Milan Fashion Week SS27 already offers plenty of food for thought. Designed by Glenn Martens, the show creates a universe built around contrasts, sensuality, energy and provocation — elements that have long been part of Diesel’s distinctive language. The fashion house itself describes the collection as a celebration of freedom, confidence, connection and desire, in line with its For Successful Living philosophy.

Among the key codes emerging from the runway is a palette that combines intense Pantone colours with rusty, earthy and material-inspired tones, creating bold chromatic contrasts. Leather dominates as a defining texture, interpreted across both womenswear and menswear, while the silhouettes play with oversized jackets, structured shoulders and sharp geometric shapes.

Dresses and skirts also follow a strongly geometric and symmetrical construction, while layering, by now one of the defining codes of the Diesel aesthetic, takes centre stage through overlapping pieces and combinations that may appear spontaneous or deliberately chaotic, yet are carefully constructed.

The treatment of details is particularly striking: irregular cut-outs, fringed surfaces and finishes that appear almost torn or worn introduce a sense of deliberately sought-after imperfection. These choices can also be interpreted through the idea of reuse and the transformation of materials: what appears worn, reassembled or imperfect acquires a new identity.

But Diesel does not tell its story through clothing alone. The atmosphere of the show is an integral part of the collection itself. Red lighting, a soundtrack initially rooted in underground techno and a progressively more sensual finale created a physical and provocative environment in which fashion, music and performance came together.

Beauty also contributes to this visual language. For women, bare skin, exposed waists and deliberately smudged lipstick enhance an image of unconventional sensuality. The contrast with the menswear, which explores seduction and provocation more explicitly, further intensifies the tension between eroticism, power and vulnerability.

It is precisely these contrasts that make the show particularly interesting to observe. At the same time, the elements presented on the runway open up a broader reflection on the relationship between the body, desire, freedom and the representation of sensuality.

The show therefore goes beyond the simple presentation of a collection and leaves room for interpretation. Through transformed materials, geometric silhouettes, sensuality, imperfection and provocation, Diesel opens Milan Fashion Week SS27 with a strong visual language that is likely to spark discussion.

After the energy and provocation of Diesel, Milan Fashion Week SS27 shifts completely with Jil Sander. The Spring Summer 2027 show presents a vision that stands in contrast to the previous show: no spectacle, no performance competing for attention with the clothes. Here, everything is designed to bring the focus back to the essential — materials, silhouettes and the precision of volumes.

The collection initially moves through a rigorous palette dominated by black, blue, grey and white, colours that reinforce the brand’s minimalist identity. What gradually changes is above all the feeling of the season: from a colder, more austere interpretation of spring at the beginning of the show, the collection slowly transitions towards a lighter summer, without ever abandoning the pursuit of formal purity that represents one of Jil Sander’s most recognisable codes.

Materials also take centre stage. Leather, silk and cotton create contrasting surfaces and introduce a strong tactile dimension that becomes an integral part of the silhouette. They are not simply materials used to construct the garments, but elements that shape the perception of volume, alternating structure, fluidity and lightness.

The lines remain clean and precise, yet never lack character. Among the most distinctive elements are structured jackets with balloon sleeves and defined waists, presented in both womenswear and menswear. The silhouette therefore plays with the contrast between a more pronounced upper body and a narrower waist, creating a contemporary shape without relying on overly elaborate constructions.

Tailoring is one of the central themes of the collection. Suits and tailored ensembles move down the runway in both masculine and feminine interpretations, reaffirming the importance of sartorial construction within the brand’s creative research. Alongside the more rigorous tailoring, however, deconstructed and oversized trench coats introduce a more relaxed and contemporary dimension.

While Diesel transformed its show into an immersive experience, Jil Sander deliberately takes the opposite approach. The setting is sterile, minimal and almost suspended, while an initially solemn soundtrack accompanies the models before gradually becoming lighter in parallel with the collection. The result is a presentation in which it is not the spectacle that captures attention, but what is being worn.

And this is precisely where the difference between the two visions becomes clear. While Diesel builds an entire universe around its collection through energy, music, performance and provocation, Jil Sander removes almost everything that could distract from the garments. The essential becomes the true scenography.

Perhaps this is why the collection does not necessarily seek the so-called “wow effect” through an immediate novelty or an overtly spectacular gesture. Its strength lies instead in continuity: proportions, materials, tailoring and minimalism are brought back to the core of the Jil Sander identity and reinterpreted through a contemporary sensibility.

Following a show like Diesel’s, so rich in visual stimuli, Jil Sander becomes almost an exercise in subtraction. It does not seek to impress through excess, but to reaffirm identity through precision. And in a Fashion Week increasingly shaped by spectacle as well, choosing to let the clothes speak for themselves becomes, in its own way, a precise statement of style.

After Jil Sander’s rigorous minimalism, Milan Fashion Week SS27 shifts its atmosphere once again with Missoni, bringing a free-spirited, nomadic vision deeply rooted in cultural influences and cross-cultural contamination to the runway. The location immediately helps shape this imagery: the inner courtyard and garden of a historic Milanese palazzo become the setting for a collection that seems to have arrived from a journey through different places, cultures and styles.

The most recognizable characteristic of Missoni naturally remains its texture. The maison’s signature surfaces and patterns continue to take center stage, joined by new material interpretations featuring luminous yarns, Lurex, crystals and light-catching details. The palette moves predominantly through soft, powdery tones, from beige and nude to pink and cream, while more striking contrasts emerge through black and white.

The silhouettes also express this sense of freedom. Trousers, dresses, jackets and ponchos follow soft lines and relaxed volumes, creating a natural sense of movement. Rather than focusing on structure or rigidity, the collection allows the garments to follow the body and move with it, reflecting the spontaneous, vacation-inspired spirit that runs throughout the SS27 collection.

The accessories immediately capture attention, reinforcing the collection’s nomadic character: tribal-inspired necklaces, oversized triangular bags, Western-style hats and rope belts contribute to a wardrobe that seems to gather influences from different worlds. Here, rock references meet Texan and Mexican influences, without becoming a single, literal theme. Instead, they come together as a layered combination of codes, materials and atmospheres.

And it is precisely this sense of cultural contamination that becomes the key to reading the collection. The models appear as travelers, almost like tourists wandering the world, with deliberately tousled hair and a spontaneous attitude far removed from constructed perfection. Each look seems to tell a different chapter of the same journey, where colors, cultures, textures and influences meet and transform one another.

Missoni SS27 thus becomes the story of a brand on a journey: not towards a specific destination, but through fashion itself. A continuous journey across eras, places, trends and cultural influences, where the maison’s identity remains recognizable precisely because it is able to evolve, blend different influences and always look beyond its own boundaries.

Among the protagonists of Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027, MM6 Maison Margiela brings to the runway a vision of fashion centred on transformation, experimentation and freedom of styling. For the SS27 season, familiar garments change their function without losing their identity: a shirt can become a dress, trousers can be transformed into a miniskirt, while a sweater can also be worn as a skirt. The aim is not to completely reinvent the wardrobe, but to alter its proportions, volumes and points of opening, offering a new interpretation of everyday garments.

At the heart of the MM6 Spring Summer 2027 collection is the idea of fashion as something to be freely experimented with. A sweater worn as a skirt gains volume thanks to the distinctive “hip-paulette”, a structure inspired by the épaulette but conceptually moved from the shoulder to the hip. The menswear wardrobe follows the same approach: collars, button fastenings and tailoring details shift position, while proportions are deliberately altered from their traditional construction.

The result is an ironic, contemporary and surprisingly delicate collection, where almost doll-like proportions, small Henley tops, lived-in caban coats and vintage-inspired shorts coexist with more conceptual constructions. Accessories also become part of the transformation: six Havaianas flip-flops stacked one on top of another turn the maison’s iconic footwear into an original design element.

MM6 Maison Margiela’s Spring Summer 2027 collection therefore reflects one of the most interesting directions seen at Milan Fashion Week SS27: not necessarily creating something new, but wearing what we already know in a new way. A shirt, sweater or pair of trousers can change its identity through styling and proportions, making room for a more creative, playful and personal approach to fashion. It is precisely this freedom to reinterpret garments that makes the MM6 collection one of the most compelling readings of the Spring Summer 2027 fashion trends.

Etro SS27: The Bohemian Aura of Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027

Among the collections presented at Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027, Etro brings a dreamy and suspended vision of fashion to the runway. The title Halo perfectly captures the spirit of the collection: an Etro aura surrounds the woman through paisley, lightweight fabrics and fluid silhouettes, creating a wardrobe that seems to move naturally around the body.

For the Etro Spring Summer 2027 collection, the maison’s most recognisable codes are reinterpreted with a lighter touch. Paisley, the signature symbol of Etro, appears in oversized, blurred and fragmented versions, while the brand’s traditional bohemian aesthetic becomes more delicate and contemporary. Flowing dresses, sheer fabrics, fringes and long, floating silhouettes contribute to an ethereal effect, balancing romanticism with a sense of freedom.

This lightness is offset by sharper tailoring, with tapered trousers, suede blousons and denim bringing the collection back to a more grounded and everyday dimension. It is precisely this contrast between fluidity and tailoring, between transparency and more structured materials, that defines the Etro SS27 proposal.

The collection thus captures one of the key directions of Spring Summer 2027 fashion: a contemporary take on bohemian style, less decorative and lighter in spirit, in which the maison’s historic codes are preserved while being reinterpreted through soft proportions and a more spontaneous attitude. A balance of paisley, femininity, tailoring and freedom of movement that makes Etro a standout presence at Milan Fashion Week SS27.

There is something familiar yet surprisingly contemporary about Max Mara SS27. It is the elegance of women from another era, defined by measured gestures, impeccable silhouettes and carefully chosen garments, reinterpreted through a distinctly modern language. The collection revolves around this balance between classic and contemporary, structure and lightness, memory and the present.

The wardrobe is built around trench coats, jackets, dresses and skirts with soft, clean lines. The silhouettes are essential but never rigid, conveying that sense of natural poise and understated sophistication that has always been part of the Max Mara aesthetic. The colour palette also remains true to the maison’s identity, with natural and earthy tones combined with white, black and ash grey.

The collection follows a journey through different materials. It begins with more substantial textures such as wool, leather and suede, gradually moving towards cotton and linen, before reaching the precious lightness of silk. This progression accompanies the silhouette towards the summer season while maintaining a constant sense of balance and restraint.

Breaking, at least in part, with the maison’s more familiar codes are the transparent chiffon dresses: delicate yet structured, they introduce a new sense of sensuality without compromising elegance. Transparency becomes a sophisticated detail, never an end in itself.

Then comes the elegant jumpsuit inspired by the 1970s, presented in both long and short versions: a return to an iconic silhouette that Max Mara interprets through contemporary lines and impeccable proportions. A garment that carries the spirit of another era while appearing perfectly relevant today.

It is precisely this dialogue between past and present that defines Max Mara’s Spring Summer 2027 womenswear. A collection that does not chase novelty for its own sake, but demonstrates how trench coats, tailoring, dresses, skirts and jumpsuits can continue to speak to the present when reinterpreted with balance, quality and the effortless timeless sophistication that lies at the heart of the maison’s DNA.